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Bali is often called “the island of 1000 temples”. The bigger hinduistic temples on Bali are usually just used on special occasions. In the remaining time they serve as place to rest and to find peace for the Gods.
Temple exists it in all forms and sizes. There are house temples, village temples, family temples, Banjar temples (temple for a borough of approx. 10-20 houses), Subak temples (a union of several farmer families), temples in caves, temples for the deceased ancestor, for rice fields or even apes.
Important temples on Bali:
The Pura Besakih, which is also called mother temple, lies in the southwest of the volcano Gunung Agung (3142 meters). It was built in approx. 1000 meters height and it is the most important hinduistic temple in Indonesia.
The name “Besakih” is originated from a region in east Java named Basuki (=good, well). The first settlers from java, who arrived on bali came from that region.
The origin of the Pura Besakih goes back to a sanctury, that already existed before the hinduism was spread on bali. The temple is also important, because of its location near the volcano Gunung Agung.
In the historical recordings (Lontar texts, which were held on palm leaves) it is told that the Gunung Agung was the seat of the spirit of a powerful ancestor.
In other texts it home is written, that the gungung Agung has been the home of Putranjaya, the son of the hindu being Pasupati. It also was connected to Mahadewa (great god or Shiva).
Other reports refer the Gunung Agung as a symbol for the Indian mountain Mahameru, which represents the axle of the universe in the Indian mythology.
Actually the Pura Besakih is consists of 198 single buildings, which are dividing the temple, in several parts. Some represent the three manifestations of the God Sanhyang Widhi Wasa, other parts are consists of buildings and shrines for villages, districts, castes or families.
The most important part is called Pura Pantaran Agung and consists of 57 buildings, which were built on 7 terraces. At this temple the entire population prays.
This part presents Shiva, which is most important part of the God Sanhyang Widhi Wasa and it is painted in serveral colors. Also the most important shrine is located in this part of the Pura Besakih, which is called Lotus throne.
The black painted second part is called Pura Batu Madeg (=Temple of the standing stone). It is sanctified to Vishnu and located in the north of Pura Besakih.
The Pura Kiduling Kreteg (=temple of the south bridge) iis coloured in red. It is located in the south and sanctified to Brahma.
The Pura Ulun Kukul (=Origination of the split gong), which is couloured in yellow represents Mahadewa and is located in the west.
The temple can also be differentiated in two parts. The boundary line between both lis located in front of the Pura Petaran Agung. The temples over this oint are called “luhuring ambal ambal” (=a bove the terraces), the temples beneath the area is called “soring ambal ambal” (= beneath the terraces).
The upper group covers seven temples, they consists of the following temples: Pura Pentaran agung, Pura Kiduling Kreteg, Pura Batu Madeg, Pura Gelap, Pura Thirta, Pura Pangubengan, and Pura Paninjoan.
Most historians assumed, that Empu (=the wise) Kuturan, who came to Bali in the 10. Century had a large influence on the balinese culture and religion. During his stay, he made changes to the temple and expanded it.
The temple Pura Paninjoan is devoted to Empu Kuturan. Also a statue of another hindu priest, named Niartha is existing in the temple.
One of the lower 11 temples is called Pura Bangun Sakti, a temple which is sanctified to Ananthabhoga, an cosmic snake (naga) which represents the earth and its fruits.
Another one is called Pura Basukian is dedicated to Basuki, another cosmic snake, which is associated to the water of earth. The Pura Goa is also dedicated to this Basuki.
A third temple, named Pura Manik is connected to the Bedawagnala, the cosmic turtle, which carries the universe on its back and around which the two cosmic snakes are winded around.
Three temples of the Besakih represent the counterpart to the three main temples, called “Tiga Kahyangan” (= three skies), which can be found in nearly all villages on Balis.
Pura Basukian is the counterpart to Pura Paseh (= temple the origin), Pura Panatra Agung represents the Pura Desa (= temple the community) and Pura Dalem Puri refers to the Pura Dalem (= temple of the dead ones).
Beside the public temples there are five special temples, which are aligned to families, which are closely associated with Pura Panataran Agung.
These are: to the right side Pura Ratu Pasek, Pura Dkuh Segening and Pura Panyarikan. On the left side: Pura Panataran Agung and Pura Ratu Pande.
According the balinese faith, the spirit of these temples, states a procession of the Gods, who leave the Besakih temple, in order to take a holy bath at the sea.
Right of the Pura Pantaran Agung we find another complex of temples, which are dedicated to famous ancestors of important families.
The largest of these temples is called Padharman Dalem. It honours the deified rulers of the Gegel dynasty (15. Century - 16. Century).
The 52 stages to the top, lead to the Bale Paget, a gate, which departs the normal from the divine world. A pavillon, which is used by gamelan players on special occasions, is located behind that gate.
Somewhat further above, the entrance to the second gate is located. The throne of the trinity and the Samuan Agung , at which deified ancestors wait for oblations.
The Bale Agung, which is used by the village population can also be found here. The Gedung Kawas, in which sanctified meals are prepared, is located in the east.
Close at the gate often priests are praying their Mantras and do small sacrifices.
On the third terrace a structure with nine and one more with eleven stages, “meru” (= holy mountain) can be found. The smaller is dedicated to Ratu Geng, the larger one is dedicated to Ratu Mas.
Also a reference to the Dewa Agung, (= great God, title for a regent on Bali) can be found here here. The God of the holy mountain Gunung Agung and the goddess of the lake Lake Batur are the prevailing Gods on Bali. The Dewa Agung is the prevailing king.
The God of the mountain is symbolically connected with the Dewa Agung. He is responsible for the performance of ceremonies at the Pura Besakih. The goddess has no flax relationship with the Dewa Agung.
The fourth terrace has one central elevation (Meru), on which are locaed 11 roofs is, which are dedicated to Rau Sinaring Jagat, who represents the light of the world. East of it some shrines can be found, which are honouring the divinities of the fine arts.
At the western wall are two pavilions, which are dedicated to the God of trade, Ratu Ayu Subandar.
The fifth terrace possesses two pagoda, which apply for deitied ancestors. Two shrines are located on the highest terrace, they represent the God of the Gunung Agung and also the mountain itself.
The most important religious celebration, which is celebrated in the temple is called: Eka Dasa Rudra ", also known as “ceremony of the 11 forces”, into which the entire population of bali is included.
This religious ritual takes place just every 100 years and serves the reconciliation between the forces of good and bad. The whole universe should be cleared by this ritual.
The ritual should be initiated by the Dewa Agung in 1963. it should also work as a tool to begin a set of political processes on, which would have made the Dewa Agung to a central political person on bali.
The preparation costs were such high that national assistance had to be requested, but during the preparation of the ceremony the Gunung Agung erupted.
2000 people died during the catastrophe, but the temple wasn´t seriously damaged. The Dewa Agung and his priests endured in the temple, in order to be able to succeed as many steps of the ceremony as possible.
The opponents of the Dewa Agung regarded this event however as a failure. In the balinese perpective, it could be also as a success, because a tragedy could also lead in a new era.
1979 the ceremony was repeated . Orson Welles filmed a documentary film to this incident named “The eleven Powers”, which describes the ceremonies in the Pura Besakih.
In the year 1938, the Pura Besakih was also by the dutch to legitimate loyal regents, by holding ceremonies.
By holding a ritaul with loyal rajas, they tried to strenghten their formal legitmation. Antetype for this consecration ritual, were the celebrations led by Gusti Bagus Jelantik, which assigned him the title Anak Agung Karangasem.
Within the ceremony the rajas, together with priests and district managers, set up themselves in order to receive the holy water.
After the ceremony they received apart from a new title, also extend autonomy rights in questions of finances and internal affairs in their realms.
By this the the dutch had to obligate the dutch rule and they also were able to hoard wealth.
The Netherlands also participated in the reconstruction of the Pura Besakih, after the temple was heavily damaged after an earthquake in 1917.
Beside the Eka the Rudra the Panca Wali Karma celebration takes place every 10 years in the Pura Besakih. Every year, a celebration named Bhatara Turun Kebeh (= Meeting of the Gods) is held in the Pura Besakih.
The Pura Tanah Tanah Lot is located at the south coast Balis, a few kilometers to the west of Sanur and was built in the 16th Century.
The entire temple was built in a black volcanic rock, which is located directly at the beach and washed around completely by the sea at tide.
The Pura Tanah Tanah Lot is dedicated, like the Pura Ulawatu, to protection divinities, who are protecting Bali against Demons from the sea. In the old faith of the balinese the sea was seat of demonic powers. This is also a reason, why the balinese population never undertook the attempt of sea voyages.
Several of this "protection temples" are existing throughout balis coats. On a clear day, it is possible to the temple from another one. So, the Pura Uluwatu can be seen from Tanah Lot, if the weather condition permits it.
A narration reports about the emergence of the Pura Tanah Tanah Lot. Nirantha, a Shiva priest and poet of the king Waturenggo should have meditated closely to today's location of the temple at the beach, after he constituted an optical phenomenon at the coast.
A short while later some followers joined the medtigating Nirantha. The resident priest Bendesa Beraben was enviously on Nirantha, adn he tried to displace him, because many of his followers were now following Nirantha.
After this, Nirantha used his magical powers to move the rock into the sea and turned his scarf into poisonous snakes, which should guard the Pura Tanah Lot. Seeing this Bendesa Beraben became also a follower of Nirantha.
The snakes are called Ular Suci (Ular= Snake, Suci= holy), still live in the sandy wholes in and around the temple. When the tide is going back, they croach into the temple.
After a small donation to the temple guards it is possible to touch one of the snakes, which lies in one of the many holes at the coast. According to the balinese faith this ritual promises luck. Snakes apply on Bali as holy animals.
The temple itself can only be entered by Hindus and is closed for tourists.
Located in the Pura Tanah Lot are two pavilions and two Merus with black roofs. One is containing seven levels and is dedicated to the highest hindu deity Sanghyang Widi Wasa dedicated, the second is containing three levels and is dedicated to Nirantha.
Since the temple is threatened by erosion, caused by the strong waves, which partially can reach a height of 2 meter, concrete blocks were placed into the sea to work as wave breakers.
Of course, these blocks are optically not very responding, but the prevent the further destrcution of the Tanah Lot by erosion or at least slow down the process of destruction.
As in all temples on bali, annual celebrations take place in the Pura Tanah Lot . At the festivities called Galungan and Kuningan, the gods and are visiting the houses of ancestors, the temples and the houses of the people on bali.
The ceremonies last 10 days. The last day, when the Gods are leaving again the peak of these ceremonies.
Sacrifices are made at the Pura Tanah Lot and houses and temples are decorated with bamboo staffs, called “Penjor”. The sacificieses called "Banten”, consists of fruits, flowers and rice cakes.
A procession of balinese women carries these sacrifices as laminated towers on their head into the temple.
The Pura Ulan Danu Batur (= " temples of the crater lake) is, after the Pura Besakih, the secondary important temple on Bali and is located at the lake Batur, the largest lake on Bali, at the foot of the volcano Gunung Batur. The entire area,and also the lake are is shaped by earlier volcanic eruptions.
The Gunung Batur is located approx. 35 km north of Ubud and is about 1717 meters high. The volcano Gunung Batur is still active and pushes pretty often clouds of smoke into the sky.
Beside a park, a multi-level pagoda, and a multi-staged Meru (Meru = Mountain, usually is the entrance of a Meru, which is formed like a triangle respectively a mountain) are located directly at the lake. They are often surrounded by a mysterious looking cloud of fog from the lake.
One Meru is dedicated to Dewi Danu. She is the companion of the mountain God if of the Mount Agung and the goddess of the lake Batur.
Two temples are dedicated to the God of the mountain Batu and the deiefied king Waturengogg. While they consists of only nine stages, the temple, which is dedicated to Dewi Danu has 11 stages. This underlines her importance.
The original temple could have been built in the 11th. In 1926 it was destroyed by a volcanic eruption. Before this incident, in the year 1917 the nearby village Batur already was been destroyed by an outbreak, while the temple remained spared.
The surviving inhabitants rebuilt the temple out of the remains of the old ones at the crater lake of the Gunung Batur. The today's appearance goes back to the pattern of the old temple parts.
According to a legend the Gods Dewi Danu and the God of the mountain Agung emerged after a volcanic eruption in the year 231 and took the disposal of the country and waters of Bali.
One most interesting shrines is a pavilion located in the park. It is strongly influenced by chinese architecture, since it is dedicated to a chinese princess.
The Pura Uluwatu (temple over rock) is located at the south coast Balis. Its full name is Pura (= temple) Luhur (= heavenly) Ulun (= head) Watu (= rock, stone).
It was built on rock, which rises up in 90 meters height over the Indian ocean. The age of the temple can´t be verified. It only assumed that it is one of the oldest temples on Bali.
The Pura Uluwawtu is still in relatively good shape, even if the numerous apes living in it did some damage over the years. It is possible to see the the coast of java, which is just 30 km from here.
Some parts of the Temples are falling regularly into the sea, while on the other side new parts are being built.
The Uluwatu is part of a set of temples, like the Tanah Tanah Lot or the Pura Sekenan, which were built at Balis south coast and which are dedicated to guard spirits of the sea. Pura Uluwatu is however the most impressing of these temples.
Two persons are connected with the emerging of the Pura Uluwatu. On, the one hand Empu Kuturan (Empu=Weise), who came from Java to Bali in the 10th Century (the legend tells he was riding on a deer) and had a relevant influence on the religious culture on bali.
He was a Shiva priest, but he was also influenced by buddhism. He built up a Meru (Meru=Berg, usually is the entrance of a Meru, is formed like a triangle, respectivly a mountain) and several shrines at the Uluwatu. Perhaps even the Pura Uluwatu itselft was built by this priest.
The second person was Nirartha, also a Shiva priest, who traveled in 1537 to Bali. He visited many temples on Bali and brought elements of the buddhism into the balinese variant of hindusim.
In the Pura Uluwatu, and also in other temples, which he visited, he built Padmasana shrines. This shrines are formed like an empty chair and is dedicated Sanghyang Widi Wasa, the most important hinduistic deity.
He deceased at the Pura Uluwatu, but no shrine was ever dedicated to him, perhaps becaus it was believed that he reached the Moksa (=Nirvana) and therefore he didn´t need any shrine for his soul.
For long time just the prince of bandung was allowed to enter the temple, until he was killed in the Puputan incident of 1906 by the Dutch aggressors.
Before Badung the dynasty of Mengwi was ruling about the area, but they lost the southeast parts of their realm 1810 to the dynasty of Badung.
Today the temple for the public is accessible ofr everyone. It is visited particularly by fishermen, who admire the goddess of the sea Dewi Laut (Laut = Sea). Also, they believe the fact that the emergence of the Temples dgoes back to a stranded ship that was transformed into a rock.
The interior of the entrace (=Candi Bentar) is formed like of wings. The front and inside are decorated with stylised birds.
All three inner courts are surrounded by coral stone. This type of stone is one reason, why the temple could is still in good shape till centuries and it is responsible for its white colour.
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